The Cameroonian Toghu: Meaning, Patterns, and History of the Royal Attire of the North-West

Deep black velvet, illuminated by yellow, orange, ochre, red, and white embroidery: suns, moons, stars, diamonds, gongs, lizards. The Toghu never goes unnoticed. In the North-West of Cameroon, it was long the garment of the kings, known as the Fon, and their dignitaries. But what we know less is that a Toghu can be read: the size of a moon, the presence of a feline or a lizard tells who you are and where you come from.

What is the Toghu?

The Toghu, also written as Atoghu, is the traditional attire of the peoples of the Grassfields in North-West Cameroon. In its classic form, it is a long tunic reaching the ankles, with wide and long sleeves, made of thick black velvet and embroidered with colorful patterns. It is often worn with a matching cloth, accompanied by a headpiece, necklaces, and bracelets.

The word is pronounced differently depending on the village: "tɔ̀gə̀" in Mankon and Nkwen, "tɔ̄kə̀" in Bafut. It primarily refers to the long tunic, but the family includes other pieces:

• The Toghu: the long tunic, which gave its name to the ensemble.
• The Ndani: a less voluminous tunic, ending below the knee, with wrist or elbow-length sleeves.
• The Mbawara: a sleeveless top, ending at the waist, now also worn by women.

Where does the Toghu come from?

The Toghu is said to have been born in three villages in the Bamenda region, in the Mezam department: Bafut, Mankon, and Nkwen, where it was worn by the chiefs and dignitaries. Some sources also mention older roots, dating back to the 19th century, linked to the neighboring Bamoun kingdom, and the first Toghu made from imported fabrics, before the Grassfields developed their own style of embroidery. Its exact origin remains debated.

From these villages, it spread throughout the North-West, then throughout Cameroon, eventually becoming one of the country's ceremonial outfits.

How is a Toghu made?

• The black velvet: its depth makes the colors of the embroidery stand out.
• The embroidery: by hand, with thread or in bands. The collar, sleeve ends, and hem feature straight and regular embroidery; the body of the tunic features diamonds, stars, and symbolic figures.
• Time: a complete embroidery can take several weeks, sometimes several months. A Toghu is expensive, and it is often passed down from generation to generation.

There is also a printed Toghu, on cotton or in a wax version, which reproduces the embroidery: black background, red and yellow crosses, braids, triangles, and white diamonds. Lighter and more affordable, it is the one most commonly seen today in cloth or festive attire.

Reading a Toghu: the motifs, village by village

Nothing is decorative by chance on a Toghu: each motif indicates a rank or tells a story. And each village has its own codes.

In Bafut

• The gong: traditional authority. Its rhythm announces war, a palace ceremony, or a dance.
• Animal skins: nobility. Large felines, the lion and "tiger", are reserved for the Fon; the spider for the second-highest palace official.
• The moons: larger for the Fon, smaller for the nobles.
• The hat adorned with porcupine quills: the highest rank, that of the great warriors and chiefs.

In Mankon

• The gong: the call of the people and the authority of the village.
• The snake: beauty, often coiled around the neck.
• The lizard: intelligence. It is the signature of Mankon, chosen to distinguish its Toghu from those of other villages.
• The red moon on the back: the dignitaries, princes, and titleholders, those who guide others.
• The red feather on the hat: nobility, granted by the Fon.

In Nkwen

• The colors of the rainbow, which the people of Nkwen hold in great importance.
• The calabash: palm wine and the ritual vessels of the palace.
• The moon on the back: authority; the largest is reserved for the sovereign.
• The lion or "tiger": reserved for the sovereign.
• Cowrie shells: royalty. Princes wear them, but the sovereign wears more, so that ranks are not mistaken.
• The spear: the era of warriors.
• The peace plant: peace, love, and unity.

Guardians of tradition actually regret that some modern Toghu display symbols without respecting this protocol, or replace them with floral motifs.

And what about women?

Traditionally, the Toghu is a men's garment. Women wear a blouse, a cloth, and a scarf embroidered in the same spirit, called "bouba" and "labba". In Bafut, high-ranking queen mothers can wear moon and animal symbols; in Mankon and Nkwen, these symbols remain reserved for men. The chief's wife is recognized by her cowrie necklace and bracelets. Today, women also readily wear the Mbawara, and designers are creating more and more women's styles.

When is the Toghu worn?

At weddings, annual dances, and festivals, during palace visits, funerals, and religious ceremonies. Traditional groups make it their uniform, and it is readily offered to foreign guests to honor them. For the Cameroonian diaspora, it is a sign of identity and pride: "It is an identity, it is who we are," summarizes a Cameroonian journalist.

The Toghu on the international stage

• Sports: Cameroonian delegations wore it at the major international events in Beijing in 2008, London in 2012, and Tokyo in 2021, as well as at the 2022 Commonwealth Games. A photo of athletes in Toghu alongside King Charles III went viral.
• Football: the ball for the 2022 Africa Cup of Nations, organized in Cameroon, was inspired by the Atoghu.
• Fashion: it represented Cameroon at the Lagos African Fashion Week in 2022, and an association of designers was formed to promote it.
• The Church: a chasuble of Pope Leo XIV was adorned with Toghu during a celebration in Bamenda.
• The movement: the "Toghu Army Movement", launched in 2021, makes the Toghu a cultural force of solidarity, and the "Ndop and Toghu Awards" reward those who keep it alive.

A heritage to protect

The success of the Toghu has its downside: competition from industrial copies, versions that ignore the symbols, and a loss of meaning. Designers and guardians of tradition argue that its protocol should continue to be respected, and that the long and costly work of hand embroidery should be valued.

Toghu or Ndop: what is the difference?

• The Toghu: black velvet embroidered in bright colors, especially in the North-West.
• The Ndop: indigo-dyed cotton, with white patterns on a blue background, emblematic of the Bamiléké and Bamoun peoples. To learn more, read our article on Cameroonian Ndop fabric.

Our tribute to the Toghu

At KEMI HOME ART, we wanted to bring the Toghu to the table, with respect: its black background, its orange and ochre crosses, its braids, and its rings. Each motif is prepared in our Alfortville workshop, then placed and glazed by hand before firing, made to order. These are not Toghu: they are tableware pieces that tell its pride.

All our pieces are customizable: color, first name, date, or message. A Toghu service for a wedding? Write to us to design it together.

Frequently asked questions about the Toghu

What is the meaning of the Toghu?
The Toghu is the royal attire of the Grassfields in North-West Cameroon. Its motifs indicate the rank and origin of the wearer; today it symbolizes Cameroonian pride and identity.

Where does the Toghu come from?
From the villages of Bafut, Mankon, and Nkwen, in the Bamenda region, where it was worn by the chiefs and dignitaries.

What are the colors of the Toghu?
A black velvet background, embroidered in yellow, orange, ochre, red, and white.

What does the moon on a Toghu mean?
Authority: the larger the moon, the higher the rank. The largest is reserved for the Fon.

Why a lizard on some Toghu?
It is the signature of Mankon: it symbolizes intelligence and distinguishes its Toghu from those of other villages.

What is the difference between Toghu, Ndani, and Mbawara?
The Toghu is the long tunic, the Ndani a shorter and less voluminous tunic, the Mbawara a sleeveless top.

Do women wear the Toghu?
Traditionally, it is a men's garment; women wear an ensemble embroidered in the same spirit. Today, women's styles are multiplying.

What is the difference between the Toghu and the Ndop?
The Toghu is black velvet embroidered in bright colors; the Ndop is indigo-dyed cotton, with white patterns.

Sources: Tag Your Blessings, The Toghu: Meaning, Origin and History · Mimi Mefo Info · Journal du Cameroun · Le360 Afrique · Djankawax