The Marie-Thérèse’s Nails wax print: name, history and meaning

Tasse à café au motif wax Ongles de Marie-Thérèse

Some pagnes whisper, while others show their claws. This one, with its rows of tapered ogives, bears a name in Côte d'Ivoire that still brings a smile: Marie-Thérèse's Nails. Behind this name lies a famous first lady, a palace rumor, and a message that all women understand.

Marie-Thérèse's Nails pagne in brief

  • Type: a wax pagne, wax-printed cotton.
  • Country: Côte d'Ivoire.
  • Names: Marie-Thérèse's Nails; it is also humorously called Suppository.
  • Family: the "chérie coco" pagnes, those of love and rivalry.
  • Symbolism: a woman who asserts her character and defends her place.

Who was Marie-Thérèse?

Marie-Thérèse Houphouët-Boigny, born in 1930, married Félix Houphouët-Boigny in 1952, who became the first president of independent Côte d'Ivoire in 1960 and remained so until 1993. Elegant and highly photographed, she left her mark on her era: during a visit to the White House in 1962, the American press even nicknamed her the "African Jackie Kennedy". For decades, she was one of the most famous women in West Africa.

A rumor that became a pagne

Like many pagnes, this one received its name in the market, through conversation. According to the collection Wax Stories by the Zinsou Foundation, the name was born at a time when "rumor had it that the President had a mistress". It was said that the first lady would not take it lying down, and that she would gladly show her nails to her rival. Rumor or pure invention, no one will ever know: it is a popular story, told with mischief. The tapered ogives of the design did the rest, and the pagne became "Marie-Thérèse's Nails".

The most playful gave it another name, inspired by the same shape: Suppository. Two nicknames, the same design, and a lot of humor.

A pagne that speaks

In West Africa, women have long used pagnes to say what they do not say out loud. Wax Stories summarizes it thus: "wearing this pagne is a way of showing yourself as a woman not submissive to her husband". A wife who puts it on sends a clear message to her husband as well as to a potential rival: I am here, and I will defend my place.

It thus answers other famous pagnes from the "chérie coco" family, such as My Rival's Eye or Apple of Discord.

What Marie-Thérèse's Nails pagne says

  • Character: a strong woman who does not let anyone walk all over her.
  • Required fidelity: a friendly but firm warning addressed to the husband.
  • Elegance: that of a first lady admired for her style.
  • Humor: that of the market women who name the pagnes.

Wax pagnes and their names

To discover why pagnes have names, and who gives them to them, read our article on the history of wax and the language of pagnes.

Our tribute to Marie-Thérèse's Nails

At KEMI HOME ART, these ogives cover the entire surface of our coffee cup and its saucer. Each motif is prepared in our workshop in Alfortville, then placed and glazed by hand before firing, to order.

Coffee cup and saucer, Marie-Thérèse's Nails wax pattern
Coffee cup and saucer, Marie-Thérèse's Nails

All our pieces are customizable: color, first name, date or message. Write to us.

Frequently asked questions

Where does the name "Marie-Thérèse's Nails" come from?
From Marie-Thérèse Houphouët-Boigny, wife of the first Ivorian president. According to a popular rumor, she was ready to show her nails to a rival.

What does this pagne mean?
Wearing this pagne means showing yourself as a woman who does not take it lying down and who defends her place in her relationship.

What is its other name?
It is also called Suppository, because of the shape of its ogives.

Where does it come from?
The name comes from Côte d'Ivoire.

Sources: Wax Stories, Zinsou Foundation, Cotonou, 2019 · Wikipedia, Marie-Thérèse Houphouët-Boigny

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